Norway without a car (part two) - the western fjords

In part one, describing my sister’s and my trip through Norway without using any cars, we had made our way by train and cog railway from Oslo to Myrdal in the mountains and then to Fläm situated on one of the western fjords. See Norway part one. Here our story resumes as we head across the Sognefjorden to the small town of Balestrand, making our way on a 6 am ferry with glass smooth waters. Here also the trip could have taken a number of different routes, taking advantage of various ferries, busses and trains. Though I will write about the trip we actually took, I also will set forth options we came across which provide the traveler choices to start and stop at different places and make up a custom trip. All without ever needing a car, and while still enjoying amazing scenery and getting out away from cities.

Leaving Fläm early in the morning, waiting for our ferry

As can be seen from the map below, copied from a sign in Fläm, the Sognefjorden is a long, narrow gash of water cutting inland from the North Sea. Given its length, the longest fjord system in Norway, a robust ferry system exists to get people (and sometimes cars) across and up and along its steep shores.

The reader will be able to map out a short synopsis of our trip by starting at Fläm on the south central shore, crossing up and over by boat to the West to Balestrand. Then we took side trips up into the narrow and beautiful fjord to Fjærland as a day trip. Leaving Balestrand we retraced our watery steps to Fläm, took a bus to an overlook above Aurland (time between ferries permitted this side trip and the weather cooperated by being clear, though overcast), and then took a ferry over to Gudvangen, followed by a bus and train to Bergen. A number of other ferries and bus combinations are possible to explore this beautiful fjord system.

Balestrand is a small town sitting at the intersection of the mouth of a side fjord and the main part of the Sognefjorden. It is a beautiful spot with many activities on offer.

The ferry drops passengers at the main town dock and just across the square is the tourist office. In there information can be obtained about all there is to do. Including bike rentals, hiking trails, fishing trips and boat tours. They speak English and are very helpful. They will also book anything needed for your stay. Nearby are two grocery stores so you don’t need to bring along food with you.

We stayed at the local hostel which was also a hotel. It is unclear at this writing whether they still offer rooms booked under the hostel, or only the hotel. The hotel is the Kringsjå Hotel. We booked (in August 2017) through the hostel website and got a small room with a balcony overlooking the fjord, all at hostel rates. Though it slept 4, we had it as a private room for the two of us. The staff was exceptionally friendly and even if it currently only takes bookings as a hotel I would stay there again and call ahead to see if one of the four person dorm rooms, with balcony, could be reserved for a good rate. Whether a hotel or hostel, a kitchen and laundry is available for use. We were there in August and it was not full by any means, though we were there midweek, so a weekend could be different.

Hostel room with a view. Looking over the Sognefjorden

In addition to another trip by ferry up into a side fjord, we had a local guide, Tor, take us for a boat ride around the town and also for some fishing. (Arranged by the tourist center, his boat is tied at dock in foreground in the view of harbor above.) He cleaned the fish for us and we took them back to the hostel where we made dinner from them, along with some things acquired from the local grocery store. The hostel kitchen had the supplies and equipment we needed and we ate on a balcony with a great view,

We stayed in and around Balestrand for two nights and parts of three days. It was easy to fill our days and probably could have stayed an extra night without running out of things to do or see without needing a car. Our ferry trip up to Fjærland included not only the boat ride but a bus to the nearby glacier museum, well worth a stop, and two overlooks of nearby glaciers. Each evening and morning we enjoyed our balcony views, seen below.

Eventually we got back onto the ferry returning to Fläm to continue our trip towards Bergen.

But here another option is presented. There is a fast ferry serving Balestrand and Bergen directly. So one could go straight to Bergen from here. Though you would miss some unforgettable scenery about to come up on our trip.

A more interesting alternative might be to start a trip in Bergen and take the fast ferry directly to Balestrand. Then after a stay there, head to Fläm to return to Bergen using the route we ended up taking and described here. That would make for a great round trip over three or four days without ever having to retrace your steps.

In any case, we returned to Fläm where we had half a day to wait for our next ferry out again.

Since the weather was reasonably clear we bought an excursion bus ticket to the Stegastein overlook leaving from Fläm. The port area in Fläm has a large tourist office where such tickets may be purchased. (Also food and a very large gift shop of course.) We did not need an advance reservation; though, again, we were there midweek and a cruise ship had not just docked. It is something to do only if the weather is good so unless it is a weekend I would not worry about booking ahead.

The coach ride up the steep sides of the fjord to the overlook was almost as enjoyable as the overlook itself. But the views on top are iconic. Many travel ads for Norway feature the views from here.

The vista looks up and down the side fjord which leads out from Fläm. The coach tickets are not cheap but this view is worth it on a nice weather day. The coach let’s passengers out for around half an hour at the overlook and then takes you back to Fläm.

Upon returning once again to Fläm we had plenty of time to grab a snack outdoors at one of the food trucks in the harbor area. Then we lined up for the ferry to Gudvangen.

There is often a choice whether to take the fast ferry or the old slow traditional ferry, which is also cheaper. Big tip, don’t be in a hurry. This is one of the great boat rides on Earth. Go slow and enjoy it. The big old traditional ferry will not only be cheaper but it will give you time to really enjoy the ride to come. The Nærønfjorden, as it’s name implies, is Norway’s narrowest fjord and many times as you round a bend you will be convinced it can go no farther. But then it turns again and keeps on going. Get a seat on the top outside deck if the weather permits, bring a snack from Fläm and have your camera ready.

You will pass by small villages alongside the steep sides of the fjords.

Once the ferry finally does run out of water, you arrive at a small port where there will be many busses all lined up and waiting for the ferry to arrive. As far as we could tell they all went to the same place. Voss. Just board one and ask driver to confirm it is going to Voss. You can buy a ticket on board or if traveling with Norway in a Nutshell you will already have a ticket. These are public busses and the fare is very reasonable. No reservations are needed.

Now get ready for a bus ride that will go over the narrowest roads in Norway that still permit a bus to run. It travels up and down the same narrow valley that formed the narrow fjord. Have a camera ready when they take this side trip. I would say that the views are pretty amazing on either side of the bus but the best is to be in a front seat.

After a longish bus ride then to Voss the bus will end at a regional train station where shortly a local train will arrive to take you to the main station in Bergen.

We stayed in the old port area of Bergen, using Airbnb, which was easy walking distances to about everything we wanted to see.

Bergen can be a bit wet. Lots of rain. But it is a nice walking city with an interesting past which has been well preserved. Busses and a tram get around the city easily. And if you get some clear weather take the funicular to the top of the mountain behind the town and enjoy the views, and hikes in the park on top as well.

An inexpensive meal can be put together in the seafood market in the old port. And from there a walk in most any direction is interesting and pretty.

Bergen has a lot of transport options to get to and from the city. A major airport serves it with bargain carriers to much of Europe plus even to North America. The train to Oslo is convenient and even runs as an overnight train with sleeper cars if you’ve already seen those views. And coach service to Oslo runs daily as well. Finally, one can take a ferry from there to Denmark if you are still looking for more rides on the water.

All-told, we not only made this trip work well without a car, I think it ended up being a far better trip because we did not have a car to tie us down. We could take boats around places without having to ever worry about returning to the same place where a car had been left. And the combination of trains, cog railways, trams, funicular, busses, ferries and even the fishing boat, always worked well and were on time throughout. No stress.

If you think you might like a trip without a car and using well run public transport, give this one a try.